Express Travels – P?l ? Conghaile retraces John Wayne’s path through Connemara..

The smoked salmon salad
Moycullen’s White Gables restaurant occupies a 1920s cottage, but the funky cafe next door, ‘Enjoy … from White Gables’, is of another era.
Step into the lime-green and raspberry-pink rooms and you’ll find polo-necked staff milling around a display case crammed with brightly coloured macaroons, cookies, muffins and fairy cakes.
I order the Connemara Smokehouse salmon with homemade brown soda bread (€8.95). Smoked locally in Ballyconneely, the salmon is rip-roaringly succulent, with a dry and pointed whiff of smoke standing in welcome contrast to the squishy fish you’ll find on supermarket shelves. The salad, a mixed bed of leaves doused in honey and mustard dressing, bears it up nicely.